Monday 14 December 2015

Practical: applying a base

I worked with Em for this practical. She had quite pale skin but also very red. I used the lightest shade (ivory) in my Kryolan foundation pallet as this was the perfect shade. For the concealer, I used D7 which seemer to cover any imperfections well and also some redness around the nose. I found that mixing in a small bit of D3 to D7 was good to cover dark circles around the eyes as D3 was a bit lighter.

Products used:
Illamasqua satin primer
Kryolan foundation pallet (ivory)
Kryolan dermacolour camoflage (d7, d3)
Illamasqua loose powder (white)

Brushes used:
Foundation brush
Powder brush
Kabuki brush
Duo fibre brush
Small rounded brush
Triangle puff

Method:
- Make sure models hair is clipped back and cape covers clothes.
- Cleanse and tone as learnt previously.
- Use spatula to take some foundation from pallet on to back of hand. Use the spatula to work the product around to warm it up. At this point, I added the primer in too.
- Use the foundation brush to test some of your mix on the side of the models face by the chin/neck. The aim is to match the face to the neck hence testing in this area. If the colour is not right, add a lighter or darker shade from pallet until colour is correct.
- When applying to the full face, start in the middle of the face and working the product out. On a day to day basis, we just think about the face although when it comes to photoshoots or film we need to think beyond that and cover places like ears, hands, chest, arms.
- Use a concealer shade that is no more than 1-2 shades lighter than the models skin.
- Again take a spatula to scrape some product from pallet to hand and work it in.
- A small rounded brush is good to apply to these smaller places. Work around the eyes, getting to the inner corners and underneath where there might be dark circles. Work on any spots, patches and redness.
- The kabuki brush is used to blend and buff the foundation. Using circular motions it will start to blend and build a smoother, fuller coverage.
- Tip some powder into the lid and dip the puff into it and tap off the excess. Press the product onto shiny/greasy parts of the face. This is typically the t-zone but make sure to get the eyelids and chin too.
- Use a duo fibre brush to get rid of any excess powder on the face by sweeping it lightly over the skin.



I personally prefer using liquid foundation as it is easier to work around the skin and I feel the coverage is better. However, I did really enjoy learning a different technique and using a different product.
Annoyingly my lesson was cut short due to the fire alarms going off so I only got one very bad picture of the work I had done. This motivated me to try this technique out at home on my fellow housemates who have different skin. It was nice to work with different textures and colours too.

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